Accessories and Gear
What else should you carry with you besides your camera to create better, clearer images.
Depending on the type of photography you are doing these are some additional items you might want to have with you.
Depending on the type of photography you are doing these are some additional items you might want to have with you.
Extra Lenses
There are two basic types of lenses.
1. Prime lenses - Primes have a fixed lens focal length, making them faster and sharper. Prime lenses have only one focal length.
2. Zoom lenses - Zoom lenses use a series of lenses to allow different focal lengths from a single lens, making them more flexible but not as fast.
2. Zoom lenses - Zoom lenses use a series of lenses to allow different focal lengths from a single lens, making them more flexible but not as fast.
Within both prime and zoom types of lenses, there are a variety of lenses, all with different focal lengths.
1. Macro Lenses - This type of camera lens is used to create very close-up, macro photographs.
2. Telephoto Lenses - Telephoto lenses are a type of zoom lens with multiple focal points.
3. Wide Angle Lenses - Wide angle lenses are ideal for fitting a large area into your frame. This is especially useful for landscape photography or street photography.
4. Standard Lenses - Standard lenses can be used for a variety of different types of photography. Their focal lengths fall somewhere in the middle, usually between 35mm and 85mm.
5. Specialty Lenses - Finally, there are some more specialized camera lenses that can impart a unique look and feel to your photographs.
- Fisheye lens. A fisheye lens is an ultra-wide-angle lens that can take in a full 180 degree radius around it. Fisheye lenses are so named because they distort an image’s field of view.
- Tilt shift lens. A tilt shift lens distorts perspective, making things look smaller than they really are.
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- Infrared lens. These lenses play with light rather than perspective, filtering out all light waves except infrared for a unique visual effect.
Tripods and Monopods
Pretty much every photographer, from beginner to professional, has seen a tripod; it’s a three-legged accessory that supports camera rigs.
A monopod is like a tripod, except it has only one leg.
Pros and Cons
A monopod is like a tripod, except it has only one leg.
Pros and Cons
1. Tripods are far more stable.
2. Tripods force you to slow down.
3. Tripods are more expensive.
4. Tripods are cumbersome and inconvenient.
5. Tripods are slow.
6. A monopod won’t keep your camera rock-steady.
2. Tripods force you to slow down.
3. Tripods are more expensive.
4. Tripods are cumbersome and inconvenient.
5. Tripods are slow.
6. A monopod won’t keep your camera rock-steady.
Lensballs
Lensball photography is the act of taking a photograph through a glass ball also called a lensball. The name is a good description because it acts as an external lens optic. The ball uses refraction to bend the light as it passes through the glass, which is of denser mass than air. The lensball acts as a natural frame to capture the scene directly behind it, albeit upside down.
Filters
There are many different filters that can be used with your camera. Listed here are 7 types of filters to consider having.
1. UV and Skylight Filters - Protective UV and skylight filters are often used to protect the front element of a lens against moisture, dirt, and scratches. This makes them ideal for shooting in wet, dusty, or muddy environments. In the past, UV filters were also used to prevent the UV light from causing haze and fogginess in older photographic films, which were typically more sensitive to UV rays.
2. Polarizing Filters - Polarizing filters add depth to an image by saturating its color and reducing reflections. These filters have a rotating mount that’s easy to attach to a lens. Once a polarizing filter is mounted on your lens and the subject is already framed, you can slowly rotate the filter while watching how the image changes on your camera’s viewfinder or live view.
3. Neutral Density Filters - Neutral density (ND) filters are sheets of dark-colored glasses that reduce the amount of light that enters your lens and hits to the sensor, but without affecting the color of the resulting image.
4. Graduated Neutral Density Filters - Graduated neutral density filters (also known as ND Grad or GND filters) have a vertical transition between dark and clear to balance the exposure between the sunny sky and its darker foreground. They vary in darkness and are measured in “stops”—the number of stops of light determines how much it will darken part of the scene you are trying to capture.
5. Color correcting filters - Color correcting filters, also known as cooling and warming, color conversion, or color compensating filters, are used to correct and/or enhance the color of your scene. Warming and cooling filters are great for correcting indoor lighting and making your scene look gloomier or sunnier while other colored filters are great for bringing out certain hues in a scene.
6. Close-up filters - Close-up filters (also known as macro filters or diopters) enable macro photography without having to use a dedicated macro lens. Many photographers' resort to purchasing these small pieces of glass than invest in more costly macro lenses, especially when they don’t necessarily have to take close-up shots all the time.
7. Special effects filters - Special effects filters serve different purposes in improving your images. Perhaps the most popular type of special effects filters is the starburst filter. It effortlessly adds a noticeable twinkle to image highlights and light sources such as streetlamps and Christmas lights. You can choose from filters that produce two-, four-, six-, or eight-point stars and light flares.
2. Polarizing Filters - Polarizing filters add depth to an image by saturating its color and reducing reflections. These filters have a rotating mount that’s easy to attach to a lens. Once a polarizing filter is mounted on your lens and the subject is already framed, you can slowly rotate the filter while watching how the image changes on your camera’s viewfinder or live view.
3. Neutral Density Filters - Neutral density (ND) filters are sheets of dark-colored glasses that reduce the amount of light that enters your lens and hits to the sensor, but without affecting the color of the resulting image.
4. Graduated Neutral Density Filters - Graduated neutral density filters (also known as ND Grad or GND filters) have a vertical transition between dark and clear to balance the exposure between the sunny sky and its darker foreground. They vary in darkness and are measured in “stops”—the number of stops of light determines how much it will darken part of the scene you are trying to capture.
5. Color correcting filters - Color correcting filters, also known as cooling and warming, color conversion, or color compensating filters, are used to correct and/or enhance the color of your scene. Warming and cooling filters are great for correcting indoor lighting and making your scene look gloomier or sunnier while other colored filters are great for bringing out certain hues in a scene.
6. Close-up filters - Close-up filters (also known as macro filters or diopters) enable macro photography without having to use a dedicated macro lens. Many photographers' resort to purchasing these small pieces of glass than invest in more costly macro lenses, especially when they don’t necessarily have to take close-up shots all the time.
7. Special effects filters - Special effects filters serve different purposes in improving your images. Perhaps the most popular type of special effects filters is the starburst filter. It effortlessly adds a noticeable twinkle to image highlights and light sources such as streetlamps and Christmas lights. You can choose from filters that produce two-, four-, six-, or eight-point stars and light flares.
External Flash Units
An external flash is a camera flash that is not built into the camera body. They can be mounted on a camera via hot shoe, or remotely triggered to fire off-camera. While many cameras have a built-in flash, greater power and versatility can be had by attaching an external flash. The settings such as aperture, shutter speed and ISO speed remain the same as those in the built-in flash, but the external flash is powerful enough to reach further behind the subject, resulting in lighting that looks more even and natural.
Here are several types of flashes available.
Built-in and pop-up camera flashes -
Built-in and Pop-up Camera Flashes - These are flash units constructed within the main camera body. They are on-axis with the lens, so when you fire these flash units, the light fires in one direction only — directly at your subject. This is usually problematic, because the on-axis light causes harsh contrast and hard shadows; not to mention causing the background to be unreasonably dark.
Dedicated Camera Flash - The dedicated flash is a flash unit that fits into your camera’s hot shoe (that slot on the top of the camera body). The dedicated flash is a great piece of gear that communicates with the camera. In combination, the camera and flash use information about lens length, ISO sensitivity, f-stop and shutter speed to determine optimal flash-strength output. The dedicated flash is preferred over the Built-in/Pop-up flash for many reasons, but one of the best is that you can avoid red eye by angling the flash and bouncing the light onto your subject.
Macro Ring Light Camera Flash - A Ring Light flash fits on the barrel of the lens by screwing onto the attachment threads. It provides a soft, diffused light source that is ideal for Macro Photography. The Ring Light Flash enables you to get as close as possible to your close-focus subject and flash it with a light source that will not give you hard contrast or shadows.
Hammerhead Camera Flash - A hammerhead flash is a flash unit that is separate from the camera and is not attached to the hot shoe. It’s a favorite among press and wedding photographers because the hammerhead has a high light output, and it provides a better angle and grip than other types of flashes.
Dedicated Camera Flash - The dedicated flash is a flash unit that fits into your camera’s hot shoe (that slot on the top of the camera body). The dedicated flash is a great piece of gear that communicates with the camera. In combination, the camera and flash use information about lens length, ISO sensitivity, f-stop and shutter speed to determine optimal flash-strength output. The dedicated flash is preferred over the Built-in/Pop-up flash for many reasons, but one of the best is that you can avoid red eye by angling the flash and bouncing the light onto your subject.
Macro Ring Light Camera Flash - A Ring Light flash fits on the barrel of the lens by screwing onto the attachment threads. It provides a soft, diffused light source that is ideal for Macro Photography. The Ring Light Flash enables you to get as close as possible to your close-focus subject and flash it with a light source that will not give you hard contrast or shadows.
Hammerhead Camera Flash - A hammerhead flash is a flash unit that is separate from the camera and is not attached to the hot shoe. It’s a favorite among press and wedding photographers because the hammerhead has a high light output, and it provides a better angle and grip than other types of flashes.
Flash Techniques
Fill-In Flash - This is a technique used when the background is much brighter than your subject, or the lighting is such that you have a high level of contrast on your subject. As the name suggests, you use the fill-in flash to add fill light to the subject, so it registers a more pleasing exposure. This is useful when the ambient light is overwhelming and would typically result in some level of silhouette.
Bounce Flash - You will get more aesthetically pleasing images when you bounce the flash off of a surface to illuminate your subject instead of the direct, on-axis illumination that you get from most flashes. You need a dedicated flash unit to bounce the flash off the ceiling or a nearby wall.
Bounce Flash - You will get more aesthetically pleasing images when you bounce the flash off of a surface to illuminate your subject instead of the direct, on-axis illumination that you get from most flashes. You need a dedicated flash unit to bounce the flash off the ceiling or a nearby wall.
Memory Cards
In digital photography, your memory card is what the photos you take are recorded on to so you can transfer the photos to a computer. There are different types of memory cards, but the most common type is the SD Memory card. Always check your camera to make sure you have the correct memory card and spare cards with you.
Light Meters
There are two types of exposure meters. Reflected light meters, and incident light meters. Lighting is especially important to photographers, who constantly have to consider how the lighting will affect the images they’re trying to capture.
Reflected Light Meter - Most cameras today have a built-in Light Meter. All of the meters built into cameras that read the light coming in through the lens are reflected light meters. A Reflected Light Meter measures the light that reflects off of the subject. The Light Meter tells your camera at what level to set the aperture and shutter speed so you capture an evenly exposed image.
Incident Light Meters - An Incident Light Meter ignores the subject and just measures the light that hits the subject. Because it ignores the subject, it cannot be fooled into underexposing light tones and overexposing dark tones, as a reflected light meter does.
Incident Light Meters - An Incident Light Meter ignores the subject and just measures the light that hits the subject. Because it ignores the subject, it cannot be fooled into underexposing light tones and overexposing dark tones, as a reflected light meter does.
Camera Straps
A camera strap might not be the first thing that comes to mind for your gear. It is always included for free on camera sets and is available for cheap as well. The stock camera straps are great as a starting setup, but depending on the type of photography you are doing you may want to try something different.
Neck Straps - Neck straps are the most traditional type of camera strap and are designed to be worn around your neck. They are typically adjustable and can be customized for a comfortable fit. However, neck straps can be uncomfortable when worn for extended periods of time, and they can be less secure than other types of camera straps. Neck straps also cause strain on the neck since all of the camera's weight rest on the neck. This is not noticeable on lightweight setups but very obvious on heavy cameras.
Shoulder Straps - Shoulder straps are worn diagonally across your body and distribute the weight of your camera more evenly. They provide better comfort and support compared to neck straps and are ideal for those who need to keep their camera close at hand.
Shoulder Straps - Shoulder straps are worn diagonally across your body and distribute the weight of your camera more evenly. They provide better comfort and support compared to neck straps and are ideal for those who need to keep their camera close at hand.
Extra Batteries and Battery Grips
Batteries
Battery life is a crucial consideration when it comes to photography, especially if you frequently engage in long shooting sessions or travel extensively. If your camera's battery drains quickly, having an extra battery can be a lifesaver, ensuring that you never miss a shot due to a dead battery. Additionally, having a spare battery can provide peace of mind, knowing that you have a backup power source readily available. The capacity of your camera's battery is another important factor to consider. Some cameras have larger batteries that can last longer, while others may have smaller batteries that require more frequent charging. If your camera's battery capacity is limited, investing in an extra battery can be beneficial, allowing you to extend your shooting time without interruptions. Furthermore, advancements in camera technology have led to increased power consumption. Features such as high-resolution sensors, image stabilization, and continuous shooting modes can drain the battery quickly. If you own a camera with these power-hungry features, having an extra battery becomes even more essential.
Battery Grips
Camera battery grips can be worth it for certain photographers, depending on their needs and shooting style. Battery grips provide additional battery life, which can be especially useful for photographers who shoot for extended periods of time or in situations where they may not have access to power sources. Additionally, battery grips can provide a more comfortable grip and better balance for larger cameras, making them easier to handle for longer periods of time. However, battery grips can also add weight and bulk to a camera, which may not be desirable for some photographers. Ultimately, whether or not a battery grip is worth it depends on the individual photographer's needs and preferences.
Camera Bags and Holsters
What you need from a camera bag can vary depending on what kind of photographer you are and what kind of kit you carry. Here a few options that are available.
1. Camera Pouches - Small cameras don’t have to be simple point-and-shoots. If you’ve looking for the convenience of a tiny camera body, you may want a camera pouch. These have room for just your camera and a few bits like memory cards and cables.
2. Camera Holsters - If you like the idea of a pouch but need a bit more space, try a camera holster. These are a similar size to pouches but will take longer zooms, so are good for smaller DSLRs. With a holster, the grip of the camera is within reach, so you can draw and shoot in seconds.
3. Waist Belts - Waist belts may not look the coolest but are very functional. Many come with modular interior dividers, so you can sculpt the storage space to suit you, and you’ll be able to cart around your camera plus some accessories and maybe a small extra lens or two.
4. Shoulder Bags - Also known as messenger bags, shoulder bags are among the most popular of camera bags. While many have a great deal of capacity, be careful not to overload a shoulder bag, as it’s easy to do yourself damage by carrying a lot of weight on one shoulder all day.
5. Backpacks - The backpack is a classic for a good reason. Larger models can take a DSLR with perhaps four lenses as well as accessories and even a tablet or laptop, and they’re also easy on the back and shoulders. You’ll be able to carry your gear over long distances without too much trouble – great for the outdoorsy landscape photographer. Many also feature hooks to carry a tripod.
6. Sling bags - A sling bag is designed to offer the capacity of a backpack and the easy access of a shoulder bag. Again, be careful not to overload a sling bag, but you’ll find your SLR and lenses, accessories and potentially a tablet or thin laptop all within easy swing-round-and-grab reach.
7. Rolling cases - Also known as trolley cases, these are the ultimate in storage if you have a lot to carry. You can also upgrade to a hard case, which can survive being dropped, kicked around, run over and even in some cases drowned.
2. Camera Holsters - If you like the idea of a pouch but need a bit more space, try a camera holster. These are a similar size to pouches but will take longer zooms, so are good for smaller DSLRs. With a holster, the grip of the camera is within reach, so you can draw and shoot in seconds.
3. Waist Belts - Waist belts may not look the coolest but are very functional. Many come with modular interior dividers, so you can sculpt the storage space to suit you, and you’ll be able to cart around your camera plus some accessories and maybe a small extra lens or two.
4. Shoulder Bags - Also known as messenger bags, shoulder bags are among the most popular of camera bags. While many have a great deal of capacity, be careful not to overload a shoulder bag, as it’s easy to do yourself damage by carrying a lot of weight on one shoulder all day.
5. Backpacks - The backpack is a classic for a good reason. Larger models can take a DSLR with perhaps four lenses as well as accessories and even a tablet or laptop, and they’re also easy on the back and shoulders. You’ll be able to carry your gear over long distances without too much trouble – great for the outdoorsy landscape photographer. Many also feature hooks to carry a tripod.
6. Sling bags - A sling bag is designed to offer the capacity of a backpack and the easy access of a shoulder bag. Again, be careful not to overload a sling bag, but you’ll find your SLR and lenses, accessories and potentially a tablet or thin laptop all within easy swing-round-and-grab reach.
7. Rolling cases - Also known as trolley cases, these are the ultimate in storage if you have a lot to carry. You can also upgrade to a hard case, which can survive being dropped, kicked around, run over and even in some cases drowned.
Camera Remotes
Camera remotes, also known as remote releases or wireless releases, have one primary purpose:
They let you trigger your camera without touching the shutter button.
And this offers two benefits:
1. It allows you to avoid any camera shake from pressing the shutter,
which in turn leads to much sharper photos.
2. It lets you trigger the shutter from a distance, which can be highly convenient.
They let you trigger your camera without touching the shutter button.
And this offers two benefits:
1. It allows you to avoid any camera shake from pressing the shutter,
which in turn leads to much sharper photos.
2. It lets you trigger the shutter from a distance, which can be highly convenient.
External Image Storage Devices
External storage enables users to store data separately from a computer's main or primary storage
and memory at a relatively low cost. It increases storage capacity.
Camera Lens Cleaning Kits
If you love taking photographs outdoors or getting very close to subjects such as plants and insects, you should know that your lens will soon need a cleaning session. Even if you don’t take your camera outside the studio, dirt, dust, grime, and all sorts of impurities will eventually build up on your lens and prevent you from taking high-quality photographs. At that point, you have two options: take your lens to a professional repair shop or clean it yourself using a camera lens cleaning kit.
Items to carry for cleaning your lens.
Items to carry for cleaning your lens.
1. Cleaning Solution
2. Lens Cleaning Pen/Brush
3. Air Blower Cleaner
4. Microfiber Cleaning Cloth
5. Carry Case
Folding Reflectors
Reflectors are one of the least expensive accessories you can have in your kit and yet they are,
extremely versatile in both natural and artificial lighting situations.
Whenever a light source is available, they will help focus and define your images.
extremely versatile in both natural and artificial lighting situations.
Whenever a light source is available, they will help focus and define your images.
Flashlights and Other Light Tools
Long exposure techniques enable photographers to create unique effects that aren’t possible at standard or high shutter speeds. One example of this is light painting. Sometimes called light drawing or light graffiti, light painting is the photographic technique of using a moving light source—such as a flashlight, glow stick, light brush, or even a smartphone—to alter an image while taking a long exposure photograph. Instead of just capturing an image you can add another element by highlighting an object or creating streaks, colors, or flashes within the image.
Rain and Dust Covers
A camera rain/dust cover or waterproof sleeve is a simple, yet effective device that protects a camera from water and dust. They fit DSLR cameras, mirrorless, and video equipment from the fate of wet and windy weather. Landscape photographers often use a rain cover when photographing seascapes, waterfalls, rivers and other outdoor scenes where they are likely to get their expensive gear wet or dusty.
Macro Focusing Rail
A macro focusing rail is a system that lets you move your camera forwards and backwards or even left to right. There are a few reasons why this is necessary to capture the best macro photography. For one, you can adjust the focus you place on your subject in micro amounts. This ensures a sharp focus. This is really handy since the depth of field you get with macro photography is very thin. As macro photography requires the camera to get very close to objects, it limits your focal depth. It is great for bokeh and out of focus backgrounds.